New Triple Exposure workshop – Notes from Nablus – Balata

Portraits of kids, by kids: presenting the faces and voices of Nabulsi youth to the world.

Aya - we are all one family

The best way to let the children of Nablus try out digital photography is to take the cameras to them. So June saw the start of our new Triple Exposure workshop – Notes from Nablus. Our first location was Balata UNRWA refugee camp.

After some Q&A on portraits and basic tips on composition we went over how to use the DSLR cameras – as it was the first time for the nine to eleven year olds, we kept it simple by talking about how to use the viewfinder, zoom, flash and how to hold the camera. Everyone made colourful name cards and took each others’ portraits to practice taking shots.

On day two we started by discussing what Nablus means to us. The children talked about what they love about Nablus, and what they would change if they could. They then brainstormed in groups and presented what they’re most proud of about their city/country, and how they would improve it if they were in charge. The levels of political and historical consciousness were impressive despite the young age of the participants.

Finally, we asked the children to each choose a short message to send out to the world from Balata/Nablus/Palestine. After writing the messages on each others’ hands, they took each others’ portraits once again and came up with this series of wonderful portraits which give voice to the children of Balata.

Please see the Notes from Nablus gallery for more photos.

We Are All Alike, We Are All Different

Seven North American interns have recently taken the TYO Center by storm. Our passion: to bring uninhibited joy and confidence to the precious children of Nablus. Our struggle: to do so with the broken bits of Arabic vocabulary we possess. The beauty of it all: 1) the smiling faces of the little boys and girls who come sprinting through the TYO entrance with such eagerness; 2) the international and local staff, translators and volunteers who support our sentiments – extending a hand to help in any way they can, whenever they can; 3) the thought of what a transformative experience this will all be. Despite our varied backgrounds and dynamic personalities, we are linked by a strong enthusiasm for the work we are doing here. Yes, we are all different, but essentially, we are all alike.

One of the primary goals for my English class is to challenge my students to realize this dichotomous concept – of owning one’s individuality while embracing what unites us. As “tweens”, children tend to get bored easily and act on impulse, create negative distractions; they are full of new hormones, emerging rebellion, and often times suffer insecurities. So while it is important to help the children build confidence in who they are as individuals, I must also give them new formulas and techniques for understanding others. This is not to say that in two months times I will be able to break them out of age-old habits, habits like continuously  questioning self-worth, forming cliques or teasing. However, I will certainly try my best to foster social interactions that will challenge them to break down barriers – and in turn build bridges – where (insh’allah) many of them will find that they can meet half way. I am seeing great progress already.

- Samin

Samin is a summer intern at TYO Nablus.

Lost in Translation: Megan’s first (Arabic) words

When I arrived in Nablus to begin my orientation for the TYO Internship Program on May 17th I realized that I had been so busy packing and saying goodbye to friends that I hadn’t really thought about the fact that I knew absolutely no Arabic words or phrases (besides “inshallah” of course). I also soon realized that I was the only new intern who had never studied Arabic before so I felt as though I had some serious catching up to do.

So what does one do to communicate with locals in Nablus before her Arabic lessons have even begun? Well, I practice a combination of charades, speaking English louder and slower than usual (this often makes me sound obnoxious) and throwing in whatever random Arabic words I’ve picked up over the course of the week. I recently worked as an English teacher in Thailand and this strategy somehow convinced taxi drivers that I could speak Thai. In reality, I had just become really good at giving directions to my apartment.

Farewell Spring 2011 Interns!

One of the most rewarding aspects of the nonprofit field is meeting and working with so many talented and passionate interns. At TYO, we usually learn as much from them as they do from us.

Which is why it is always so hard to let them go!

Three months ago, I introduced a few new folks to TYO: Leila, Adam, Colin and Mathilda. This fantastic four has shared their own passionate blend of stories, skills and knowledge with the Nablus community and TYO since January.

Adam, Mathilda, Leila, and Colin, Spring 2011 interns, representing TYO on the terrace over looking Nablus.

Last week, all too soon, it was time to say farewell as these phenomenal individuals continue along their own paths to affect positive social change at home and abroad. Adam begins law school this fall. Leila begins a Hart Fellowship in June. Mathilda is staying on at TYO to coordinate the Triple Exposure project, and Colin also joins our summer team to coordinate youth activities before beginning a Fulbright fellowship in August.

This was a tremendously talented and incredibly valuable group. They taught classes in leadership and communications, music, English and photography. They set up community English courses and organized an evening soccer league for neighborhood youth. Each week, they shared their stories and experiences on this blog. They will be missed!

Congratulations and farewell, Spring 2011 interns! Thank you so much for your service, efforts and hard work. We wish you the best of luck with all your future endeavors!

- Chelsey

Chelsey is the International Internship Coordinator at TYO Nablus.

Spreading the Culture of Volunteerism

From Fifth Grade English to Tawjihi Prep, neither of my classes, which operate under the Internship Program, would be half as successful as they are without the help of my committed volunteers, who are recruited, trained and organized under the careful and kind watch of Ahmad, TYO’s Volunteer Coordinator. 

Every Monday and Wednesday, I meet with five volunteers for a half hour before my Fifth Grade English class begins. Beforehand, I spent the night before, and morning of, drawing up a lesson plan, scratching the whole thing, drawing up another, and scratching that one too.  No matter how many different drafts I go through before settling on the daily lesson plan, I take care to lay it out, minute for minute, by the time my volunteers arrive. Assisted by five English language majors, translation has never been an issue in my class. I can rattle off a lesson plan, during our pre-class meetings, going over each activity only once, and trust that my volunteers will carry it out with indefatigable enthusiasm.  Without them, I would be lost: both linguistically, as all five do an excellent job of bridging the gap between English and Arabic, and structurally, as the extra eyes and ears are invaluable when handling a room full of students nearing the completion of their first decade of life, an exciting time to be a kid!

The Volunteer Program here at TYO is an integral part of all facets of the Nablus Center’s programming.  Ninety-one registered volunteers, drawn primarily from the local An Najah University, commit between eight and fifteen hours each week to serving tomorrow’s university students, working alongside TYO staff helping with the Intern Program, Core Program, Triple Exposure, Off-Site Initiatives and the recently created Nablus Premier Soccer League.  While the majority of the volunteers have a background in education or English language, they come from fields as diverse as economics and fine arts.  As Volunteer Coordinator Ahmad insists that a specific course of study is not nearly as important as is a commitment to serving children and acting as a role model in, and for, the community.

TYO interns and volunteers on a recent site visit to Rosy Palestine Kindergarten in Tulkarm

Intern Journal: Maloukhieh and M’jedderah and Maqloubeh—Oh my!

I confess: having the women in my computer literacy class create a Microsoft PowerPoint presentation on their most prized Arabic recipes was more than just an exercise in PowerPoint acquisition skills.   Maqloubeh, Mouloukhieh, M’jedderah—all my favorite Middle Eastern dishes coincidentally begin with the letter “m,” often making it impossible for me to distinguish between each one—are just a few of the Arabic meals that have rendered my stomach joyful these past few months in the Middle East.  So, at the start of Tuesday’s computer class I found myself in an auspicious position.  I wanted to learn more about the savory Palestinian dishes that I’ve grown to adore.  For which traditional occasions are these dishes usually cooked? Which ingredients will I need to acquire when I attempt to cook musakhan for family and friends back home? Etc.   What I did not count on, however, was a dozen lunch and dinner invitations by the end of class.  As the women shuffled out of class that morning, each one extended a gracious “Ahlan wa Sahlan” to their homes: “I’ll make you the best maloukhieh you have ever tasted!” and “Come over today after class, drink tea at my home, meet the family, and tell me what you think of my m’jedderah.”

This past Saturday marked the first of what I hope will be many more house visits with community members.  Hanin, the outstanding translator in my computer and fitness classes, invited both Mathilda and me to her home Saturday evening to meet her husband, two sons, and daughter Nadia.  Over meat and cheese-stuffed pastries, sage tea, and Nescafe cake (yes, you read correctly, Nescafe cake…it’s delicious), Hanin shared with us her Palestinian narrative:  she told stories of love and loss, frustration and hope; yes, she and her husband relished the chance to bestow upon us some of that unwavering Palestinian humor—Qaddafi’s peculiar fashion sense was the source of a good laugh or two.   We also learned how connected Hanin and her husband felt to their homeland: given her mastery of the English language and her experience as a translator, she had been offered the opportunity to immigrate to Canada on more than one occasion; each time she resolutely refused, citing her unwillingness to break from her Palestinian roots.

As we realized that three hours had flown by and that the late hour alone beckoned for our return to the TYO Center, we said goodbye to our new friends, toting some Nescafe cake and other goodies for the road and promising Nadia that we would return again soon for some more cross-cultural “girl talk.”

Here’s to many more encounters with delicious Palestinian cuisine in the coming weeks!

- Leila

Leila is an intern at TYO Nablus.

Photo of the Day: NCM Postcards

Over the course of 2010, TYO participants created artwork for several exhibits on Nablus at the National Children’s Museum in Washington, DC. The exhibits displayed artworks inspired by Palestinian food and holiday traditions and customs. This month in Nablus, TYO is thrilled to display a collection of postcards sent by children in Washington, DC to TYO participants that share their favorite playtime activities and inquire as to what Nabulsi children do for fun.

 

Intern Journal: An Afternoon in Ramallah

Our first week of classes was not only chaos free but without a doubt enjoyable and full of energy. I can only speak for myself, but the kids in my photography class were attentive, and eager to get their hands on the cameras as soon as feasibly possible. They’re looking forward to running wild on next week’s class trip to the Old City.

Outside the classroom, the interns took Friday to visit Ramallah, a nearby city in the West Bank, approximately 14.63 km from Jerusalem – or Al Quds as it is known in Arabic. As a newbie to the Middle East, it was my first time out of Nablus, which provided a refreshing break from living and working exclusively in the same building all week – especially as last weekend was spent indoors brainstorming and organising for the week ahead. However from here on out, the weekends shall be a chance to explore this fascinating region or at the very least areas nearby.

The landscape is breathtaking. As our vehicle sped along the twists and turns, I got more of a sense of the hilly nature of the land. I had arrived under the cover of darkness from the airport two weeks back, but on this drive the sunlight bathed the horizon in gold, barely a cloud in the sky.

Friday is Islam’s holy day, and in the West Bank – along with much of the Middle East – most establishments are closed. People have the day off from work to pray, eat, and spend time with their families. This meant that we saw a version of Ramallah that was only representative of the quietest seventh of the week. A couple of cafes and shops were open here and there, but seeing the quiet sunlit streets lined with shut shops, reminded me of sleepy little French towns on Sundays.

After a quick visit to Yasser Arafat’s memorial we meandered into town and sampled the delicious local shawarma. Then, we walked and walked, the length and breadth of the town, eventually culminating in an ever-decreasing spiral to end up back where we started on Main Street.  It was a pleasure to see the beautiful architecture, a maze of weathered limestone houses, gardens and new half-finished constructions. A man walking his daughter back home in a stroller asked us if we were lost, telling us not much happens on Fridays. Another boy ran out from an al fresco family lunch to insist we all try some of their sfiha (small Levantine breads topped with minced meat and spices) then kindly inviting us to join their table. But not wanting to intrude and already touched by such open generosity from a stranger, we thanked him and were on our way.

As usual, the few people we encountered made us feel incredibly welcome. Ramallah is home to more ‘internationals’ than Nablus so no doubt people have more chance to practice their English there. Nevertheless, we were impressed with the level of English across the board in Ramallah. When someone can speak English in addition to their mother tongue, they immediately widen their potential for human interaction, increase their audience and gain access to a plethora of information on everything imaginable — if they can get online too. I feel that if someone has a story to tell, then maybe it should be heard.

Through our English classes here at TYO (both for children and the wider community) people can access and communicate with a world outside of the Middle East. Each new Arabic phrase we are taught and every step we take here as guests in Palestinian society is the flip side of the same inter-cultural dialogue, which we hope will benefit all of us. Once again I can only speak for myself, but every day I learn something new.

- Mathilda

Mathilda is an intern at TYO Nablus.

Makin’ Groceries, Makin’ Friends!

In New Orleans, people refer to shopping as “making groceries.”  In Nablus they should just call it “making friends.” 

We execute grocery runs twice weekly for our intern abode.  In the past two and a half weeks, I’ve volunteered, been assigned, or otherwise just gone to the market at least a half dozen times already.  This is not unintentional.

Making groceries in Nablus is an exciting process.  First comes the phone call to our friendly driver Munir who appears out of nowhere in his always spotless taxi.  Hopping in Munir’s cab begins an adventure in culture, language and, well, friendship.  An enthusiastic teacher and overall personable man, Munir is quick to extend a greeting in Arabic, remembering my name ever since I offered it the first time we met.  From greetings, Munir gently eases the conversation forward, speaking slowly and clearly, always pushing the limits of my fledgling Arabic vocabulary.

The first stop on our tour de food is Sami’s fruit market.  Like Munir, Sami needn’t have met me more than a single time to greet me with a warm welcome from then on.  His smile is infectious and his warmth keeps the open-air shop cozy, at least in spirit if not temperature.  Before reaching for a bag, I reach first for Sami’s large and calloused hand that he inevitably extends across the counter.

For all I know, Sami’s perch is permanent, wedged tightly in a narrow passage between the counter, which holds the electronic scale, a fruit vendor’s sole instrument of necessity, and a row of canned goods behind.  Sami’s girth extends almost from counter to back wall, but, then again, so does his smile!

I bump around the small market with whomever is on grocery duty with me, collecting small green bags of fruits and vegetables, piling them on Sami’s counter.  When we are finished collecting, the tallying begins.  Having yet to start my formal Arabic lessons, I look for vocabulary wherever I can, and Sami’s checkout counter makes for a fantastic impromptu classroom.

Sami, like Munir, is a willing and able teacher.  As he gently sets a bag down on the scale, he asks me first to name the contents in English before sharing the Arabic counterpart.  Soon, hopefully, I’ll beat Sami to the punch, offering him the Arabic word before it passes his lips. . . though I might have to keep glancing at my hand scrawled cheat sheet for the next few weeks!

We hump two or three bulging bags of fresh and colorful produce across two busy streets to a little supermarket.  Walid, the proprietor, greets us with only the slightest grin which suits his dark mustache and always-black outfit well.  Unlike Sami, Walid is reserved, contained, calm, though equally helpful and undeniably kind.  When a can is just out of reach, Walid finds another that previously escaped my view.  A moment’s hesitation when looking at a shelf brings him quickly to my side for assistance.

When I eye a big white painters bucket filled with pickled peppers, Walid and his colleagues are all too eager to offer me one.  In part to satiate my obvious desire, and, likely, in part to see my eyes swell up at the incredible heat!  I don’t mind as I am usually offered a cooling pickle shortly after, but, not of course until the burn has already crept up to my forehead and down to my stomach!

From Walid we collect a half-week’s worth of dry and wet goods.  Milk, eggs, bread, lebneh, juice, pop, salty cheese, Corn Flakes (Nestle, not Kellogg’s, sorry Battle Creek), red beans, white beans, chick peas, canned full, and, my favorite, a half kilo of fresh ground espresso.  The later Walid does not carry but is happy to procure for us, sending his assistant out into the evening to fetch a small bag of this finely ground chocolate colored powder.  The coffee arrives a few minutes later, freshly ground, still warm in the bag.  Walid is sure to let everyone sample its warm aroma before dropping into our growing pile of goods on the counter.

Like at Sami’s, and anywhere else we use group money to make a purchase, a receipt is requested and made out by hand.  The Arabic words followed by unfamiliar numerals look like some sort of ancient poetry, written solely for our eyes!  In a way, it is.

By the time Walid begins drawing up our unique culinary poem, Munir has usually reappeared and begins loading our many bags into his trunk.  If we are late, he has no problem spending a few minutes exchanging words with the other men in the store.  His friendliness is clearly not reserved for TYO Interns only.

Back in his car, Munir inevitably asks where I would like to go.  I do my best to eek out “I will go to TYO,” in Arabic, the transliteration of which I won’t dare to try!  Driving slowly through the night, Munir approaches each turn cautiously, asking me what to do next.  “Left or right?” he implores and I do my best to respond, setting off a string of laughter from any other Arabic speakers in the car.  Munir does not chuckle, but sees to it that after a few attempts I’ve corrected, or at least mitigated, my pathetic pronunciation.

No, my language acquisition skills are nothing to write home about and picking up Arabic isn’t going to be a walk in the park.  But as for making friends here in Nablus, well, its about a easy as makin’ groceries!

- Adam

Adam is an intern at TYO Nablus.

“3 for 5, for Obama!”—Strolling through the Old City and other first week exploits

To all my friends who scoffed at my choice of foreign language studies in university: four years of Arabic is finally paying off, big time.  In our capacity as teachers at Tomorrow’s Youth Organization, we interns have ready access to translators and volunteers who help us to overcome language barriers in the classroom. Outside the center’s majestic walls, however, it is up to us to convey to the people of Nablus our thoughts, good will, and commitment to the community.  Pointing, smiling, and nodding can work wonders, but having a foundation in the language of the local community definitely enhances the cultural experience of living in Palestine.

Between strolling through the bustling old city souks and stopping to chat with storeowners, getting to know the women in my week one aerobics and computer classes, and just taking the time to admire the rolling hills from the sixth floor balcony, I’m quickly learning so much about the people here.
What strikes me the most about the Nabulsis is how welcoming and gracious they are: an hour’s stroll through the old city reveals how misguided many Americans are in their perceptions of Palestinian hospitality toward foreigners. Sure, while walking through the old city last week we interns got a fair share of curious stares, but that’s to be expected when you’re the only two blondes and redhead in the general vicinity.  As we proceeded past the aroma of spices, nuts, and Nabulsi kanafeh (yum!!) we were approached by several locals who wanted to welcome us to Nablus.  One particularly friendly owner of a nearby sweet shop stopped to introduce himself and to hand us each a little candy for the road. Perhaps the most amusing moment occurred as we passed by an older gentleman selling ka’ek by the road (ka’ek is a type of bread topped with sesame seeds): assuming correctly that we were Americans he exclaimed in Arabic: “3 [ka’ek] for 5 [shekels]…for Obama!”

As we meandered up the hills back toward the center, we stopped at a local supermarket to buy some pita bread (Arabic: khubez).  The owner was pleasantly surprised when he learned that I spoke Arabic and that my Mom’s family was originally from Jaffa. He then initiated a lively conversation about Jaffa’s famous oranges—best ones in the world apparently—and encouraged me to visit Yaffa before I returned to the States.  With a dry smile he remarked that Jaffa is a city to which he can never return but joked that he wouldn’t turn down an orange from there if I got the chance to go.  This exchange illustrates another noteworthy trait about Nabulsis and the Palestinians in general: they are among the most resilient people I have ever met.  The upbeat atmosphere at the old city markets, the pleasant exchanges between locals in the street, the hospitality of the women in my computer and aerobics classes such positivity in the face of constant adversity is truly inspiring.

-Leila

Leila is an intern at TYO Nablus.